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Monday, 7 January 2013

FOTD: The Classic Smokey Eye. A Step by Step Tutorial! | Zoe Newlove Guest Post

Hello Guys! Before I begin this tutorial I would just like to say a massive thank you to Megan for inviting me to do this guest post.


Being a make-up artist, I regularly get asked the question: “How do you do a smokey eye?”

There are numerous ways to create this look, and I have found that some girls panic as to whether they are doing it the “right” way. I am here to tell you there is no “right” way. No rules. No make-up bible that you have to swear by. Make-up is about having fun and experimenting. There are only guidelines, and then the rest is down to you. On that note, I thought I would take this opportunity to talk you through this timeless look, by showing you a step by step tutorial. Simple guidelines – no rules allowed ;)
Caption (Shu Uemura Shader, M.A.C 217 Blending, Nars Smudge Brush, Illamasqua Eyeliner)

OK, you will need a few things for this.

First up, brushes! Good brushes definitely help, they will become your new best friends. In this tutorial you will need a brush to apply the shadow, one for blending, an eyeliner brush and a “smudge” brush for more accurate application. If you cannot get your hands on all of these, do not worry – most eyeshadow brushes are really versatile so just find what works best for you. I even used my finger tips for part of this tutorial!
Onto make-up. Think of a smokey eye as three colours. Dark, medium light. There are many palettes now on the highstreet or in beauty halls to choose from that have ready made “smokey eye” palettes containing these three shades. If you have one of these feel free to use it. In this tutorial, I am using a selection that I just love to work with. I decided to grab from my kit:

Jemma Kidd Make-up School – Essential Smokey eye kit - “Light”
Maybelline Colour 24hr Tattoo in Immortal Charcoal – “Medium”
Urban Decay Alice and Wonderland Ltd Palette - Jabberwocky – “Dark”

I could have just gone ahead and use the Smokey Eye Kit, but instead decided just to use the lighter shades in the palette for this guide. You can use whatever you like, just remember the guidelines for a Classic Smokey Eye are greys and blacks, and select three colours in a range of dark to light. You also need mascara, a selection of dark eyeliners and you may like me choose to use an eye primer.

I used:

Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Original
Laura Mercier Onyx Brilliant Gel Liner
Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Liner
A Clinique Mascara
Step One:

Apologies for the naked face, but you need a blank canvas. Yes, that is right we are doing the eyes first. Why? If you make a mistake, or eye shadow powder falls onto your base it will look messy and be difficult to fix, so start your eyes first and then do your base. Apply eye primer and here I also like to fill in my brows.
Next, take your black liner (pencil or gel – personal preference) and then line the inside of your eyes, both the top and bottom water line. This will really make your eyes pop.

Step Two

Apply your medium shade to your lid. I used the Maybelline Colour Tattoo here, applying it all over the lid with the flat shader brush. Build up the colour to create depth. Take your blending brush, and going backwards and forwards along the crease really buff the colour into your socket line. If you are using this cream eyeshadow, I suggest you work with the product quickly as I find it sets really fast. Keep blending and blending along the crease, into your socket and slightly below your brow bone.
Do this until you are happy and there is no “line”. A soft finish is much better than having a harsh line.
Take this colour under your water line, use a cotton bud to neaten up any edges when you do this, as you may find the line you create is too thick.
Step Three

Time for some definition. Take your dark shade, preferably a black, or like mine one with a little bit of glitter in. Apply with a smaller brush, as suggested a “smudge” brush and tap off excess powder or apply to your hand first. This is important as you do not want to make a black mess.
Use the dark shade to create this V shape. On the top of your lid start from the outer corner of the crease and sweep towards the centre then stop. Then, still on top of your lid go from the outer corner of the lash line and line the top of your lashes, stopping just before the centre. Blend the dark and the medium together here slightly. You will also need to line underneath the lower lash line with this dark shade – use the picture above as your guide.

Hopefully, you can now see your Classic Smokey Eye coming together.
Use the above picture here for a guideline, this is how your eyes should be looking. We all have
different shaped eyes so do not panic if the shape is not the same, but you get the idea.
Nearly there ;)

Step Four

Highlighting is next. Take your light shade and using a finger or a clean brush dab the lighter shade into the inner corner of your eye and sweep along the brow bone. I like to blend the edges together too.
Ok, we are at the final stage now guys! Using the same liner as before, or like me, choose a slightly different shade – I chose one with more shimmer – line the top lash line. Give yourself a flick or just keep it simple, all we are doing is adding that tiny bit more definition. Give your lashes a good curl and wack on lots of your favourite black mascara.
Are you happy? If so clean up any mess with a cotton bud and then apply the rest of your base, contour and lip as normal.

That is it! Follow these guidelines, practice and do not be afraid to blend!

I truly hoped this post has helped you guys. If you have any questions, or would like to see more posts like this then please get in touch.

Zoe xx


Rainbow Gatherer said...


ronnie canello said...

Loved the tutorial!!

Kirsty Watson said...

I've always stayed away from smokey eyes because the few times I have tried I ended up looking like I'd been punched!! This is a great tutorial though & seems easy enough to follow so I'll be giving it another try next time I'm out! xx


Sophierosehearts said...

Great tutorial, i always wimp out of black smokey eyes, and go for bronzey/brown smokey eyes xx

AliceLily said...

Looks gorgeous! I never know how far up to go, end up just looking like i have a black eye! x

Sharina said...

YOU LOOK SO GORGEOUS! Both with and without the eye makeup!! Absolutely pro! I wanna be able to apply shadow like you do - flawlessly!

The Misty Mom

Paige Francesca Bryan said...

This tutorial is far easier and simple-er to understand than all the other ones!! Thanks!


Paige xo

Zoe Newlove said...

Hello chicken, if you are struggling with how far to go up, close your eye and feel where your crease is. Apply your eyeshadow to just below this, so when you buff and blend up and outwards you will find it really softens out just past the crease. The best way to blend is to take your brush backwards and forwards across the crease, the brush does the work for you. Hope that makes sense. x

Zoe Newlove said...

Thanks! x

Zoe Newlove said...

Ah glad you liked it x

Zoe Newlove said...

Hello! Glad you like the tutorial if you have any trouble with it just drop me an email or tweet me : @zonewlove x

Zoe Newlove said...

Thanks for your comment :) I hardly ever wear a black smokey eye but find it is the one people mostly struggle with, personally I much prefer to wear a golden brown smokey eye xx

Zoe Newlove said...

Aw thankyou so much, what a lovely comment! Trust me it took a lot of practice to get good with eyeshadow, everyone can do it with a little practice.xx

Zoe Newlove said...

Glad you liked it!! I was hoping it would come across as easy to understand, thankyou!!! xx

Leanne Helmer said...

Lovely tutorial! You look like Blake Lively in the last picture, so pretty! xx


meneksh said...

This is great, I am so rubbish at eyeshadow it isn't even true. I have a really watery water-line on my lower lid and quite sensitive eyes so any time I try to use liner or a smokey look, I just kinda end up looking ridiculous.

Lara said...

It was useful to read it.
I usually do brown smokey eyes, because it is better on me than the black. :)

Anna said...

Thats such a beautiful look, I have never really used grey/silver colours on my eye before so I will have to try this out! :)

Anna xx

Katherine xo said...

you're stunning, this look is beautiful on you! definitely gonna try this as I'm terrible with smokey x


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Emma said...

Brilliant post! Really made it clear to me :) Thanks!


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